"The bizarre trend in mountaineers is not the risk they take, but the large degree to which they value life. They are not crazy because they don't dare, they're crazy because they do. These people tend to enjoy life to the fullest, laugh the hardest, travel the most, and work the least."
Pictures- I have hundreds of new ones to add (from the trek and two ice climbs), but unfortunately the wifi is very slow. Hopefully by next week I will have them up.
When Philippe and I set off to climb Vallunaraju (at just under 5,700m), we wanted an easy ice climb with good weather and amazing views, and that is exactly what we got. After a hard two hour walk to the base camp (hard because we were carrying our climbing boots, crampons, and ice axe, as well as a tent, sleeping bags and everything else), we set up camp beside the glacier and watched an amazing sunset on the mountains around us. We left camp at about 2h30 under the full moon, and made our way up the mountain. Except for the last little bit which was more technical (an ice wall), it was more of a walk than climb, making it much easier than the other two mountains I have done. It was also beautiful, breathtakingly beautiful, both on the way up in the moonlight, and especially in the sun on the way down. We reached the top in less than four hours (we were told it would take us 5-7, apparently we are in good shape right now) right as the sun was coming up. From the top we could see dozens of other mountains, it was absolutely amazing. After staying a while at the top, we headed down just as the sun was hitting the glacier. Unlike the other two climbs, which were volcanos and therefore just up, up, and up, here the climb was much more interesting and fun. All in all, this was by far the most fun climb I have done yet!
Though we had our sight set on Huascaran (at over 6,700m it is Peru's tallest mountain, and the second tallest in South America, and as crazy as it sounds to do it, now we would have the best chance of making it since we are so acclimatized), which is a seven day approach, we realized that we really are in the wrong season and it is not possible to climb it now (the climbing season ended about a month ago, if not I would stay here a few more months and do another dozen mountains). So instead we headed off to climb our last mountain, Pisco, which at just under 5,800m had an even more amazing view than the last one from the top. Once again we slept in a tent, though this time we had a 2h30 scramble over huge boulders to reach the glacier (we did this at midnight). After that, we ice climbed for about four hours, including over two ice walls where the guide set up a top rope (this was the most technical bit of climbing yet). Once again, we reached the top just after sunrise with a clear sky, the last clear day of the year (the rain has now started, and the climbing season is really over). This mountain is known to be right in the center of the tallest mountains (including being right beside Huascaran), and boy was it ever. From the top we could see dozens of mountains on all sides, so we stayed at the top for a while before heading back. After ten hours on the mountain, we reached our base camp where we took a quick nap, then headed the last two hours down to the van. This was the most technical climb yet, and the most beautiful from the top, so it definitely competes with the previous mountain for best climb yet.
After a rest day (a typical rest day involves eating lots of street food, fresh squeezed orange juice, and all different kinds of fruits, all of which can be found around every corner), we went ice climbing, though not to climb a mountain this time. It was a wall of ice that the guide belayed us on so that we could practice more technical climbing. As hard as it was, (I need more muscle apparently) it was also very good practice. Tonight we are going to take an eight hour night bus, only to jump on another one (for twenty-two hours) right after in order to make our way down to Cusco (a large, beautiful, but very touristy city as it is close to Machu Picchu). From there another week long trek is in order!
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